June 2000

Contents (what's in this issue)

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How to contact us
Good Old Boat Magazine
7340 Niagara Lane North
Maple Grove, MN 55311-2655
763-420-8923; 763-420-8921 (fax)

Karen Larson, Editor
Jerry Powlas, Technical Editor
Dianne Sivald, Newsletter Editor

New directory is posted!

We can't help ourselves. We're very proud of the new directory of suppliers we've posted on our Web site for the sailors of good old boats! Go to: <>.
Once in the directory, you can search for what you're looking for by item (roller furlers), by brand name (Profurl), and by supplier (Nance & Underwood Rigging and Sails). More than 1,000 organizations are in our database and will be available for searching soon. Right now, approximately 200 suppliers are visible and searchable. We thought it best to get the early respondents up as soon as possible so you could see what this directory can do for you, how it works, and most importantly so you can tell the rest of us about suppliers of goods, services, and information you know about.
All you have to do is add information about a supplier you've found (or as much as you know about them) online while you're thinking about it, and we'll do the rest. We'll post these and the others already on our list as soon as we get the "go-ahead" from those organizations. This gives all of us a fast way to find what we're looking for -- whether it's charts, ports, or winches -- when we're upgrading or maintaining our boats.
Unlike other directories, these listings are free to all suppliers, not just those who paid for the privilege, so we can all find what we're looking for. So let's build this valuable resource together. Please spread the word among your mailing lists and newsgroups. And then don't forget that it's available for you whenever you're looking for something for your boat. Like fine wine, this directory will keep getting better with time as we all get a chance to get our favorites listed.

What's coming in July

The July issue is coming along nicely. Here's what you can expect to find there:

The review boat is the Southern Cross 31.

The feature boat is the West Wight Potter.

The history of the Cheoy Lee Company by Kate Godfrey-DeMay adds a focus on the review and feature boats.

A classic race in New Zealand offers equal doses of gorgeous classic sailboats with a portrait of Lin and Larry Pardey, who participated in the race, written by John Geisheker with photos by Bob Grieser.

Theresa Fort tells how her family conserves water aboard.

Ted Brewer focuses on keel shape.

Bill Sandifer discusses the process he used when selecting a sailmaker and ordering a new jib.

Norman Ralph installs an anchor windlass.

We reprint a chapter from Dan Spurr's new book, Heart of Glass.

Andy Shanks restores a San Juan 24.

Gordon Group tells how he was converted to cruising from racing.

Brian Engelke, Glyn Judson, and Jerry Powlas present the first of a new feature: Quick and easy projects. Brian builds a windscoop; Glyn creates a freshwater flushing system for his saltwater boat; and Jerry creates a customized set of spinnaker pole chocks.

We've got several book reviews (We love having our readers involved in this way -- if you told us you were interested in doing a review but have not heard from us yet, be patient. We got dozens of requests and are working our way through the list as review books arrive in our mailbox.).

Reese Palley has this issue's Reflection for us all, and Pepper Tharp illustrates the piece masterfully.

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Needed: The benefit of your experience

We're looking for sailors with mainsail furling systems, such as lazy jacks, the Dutchman Sail Flaking System, Doyle's StackPack, and other in-boom, on-boom, and in-mast reefing/furling systems. We'd like to do an article based on your experience with these systems and using your photos of the process of raising or lowering the main.
Tell us what system you've got and what you like and don't like about it. What does your system do particularly well? Do you have any experience with other kinds of main furlers for comparison? Is it the right system for you and the way you use your boat? Do you have to head into the wind to drop or raise your mainsail? Are there any other special actions that are required for raising or lowering the sail? Is that an inconvenience, or not? How about ease of installation or removal at the time of spring launch or fall haulout (for those unfortunates in colder climates). Are there any special issues or considerations with mainsail covers? Jamming problems? Was the system worth the money invested? Would you do it again? You can send your thoughts on the subject to

Do you know of marinas that sell magazines?

We're always looking for marina chandleries that might want to sell Good Old Boat magazine. What about where you keep your boat? Let us know how to contact them if magazines are sold there. Do you know of other marinas where they sell magazines?

Looking for back issues?

If you're looking for back issues that are no longer available from Good Old Boat, some of the independent booksellers listed in the front of each magazine may still have these issues for sale. They don't tear them up and return the covers like the big guys do. So if you're looking for one, ask around. You might be pleasantly surprised. Don't forget you can use your free classified ad (one per subscriber each year -- some long-term subscribers have used a classified ad for each year, so far) to request copies you're looking for or to advertise copies you want to sell. We realize that some readers will eventually "liquidate their holdings" and go sailing.

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Boat names (What? More? )

Many years back, for our Triton Magic, we named the dinghy Puff (i.e., the Magic drag-on). Less inspired, for our last boat, Scout, the dingy was Tenderfoot. Now with Sapphire, the dinghy (guess the make!) is Trinket. There may be room for another series on "How Dinks Strike Back" after months of being pulled around by the nose. Drifting downwind off the Maine coast a few summers ago, Scout simply stopped. The sail seemed to still be pulling, though there was not much wind. Looks and probes over the side reassured us that we were not tangled with any of the cluster of lobster pots we were threading through. Finally we looked back at Tenderfoot. A buoy had flipped over the towline and wouldn't disengage.We had to haul our fat stern sailboat back to the dink hand over hand to flip the pot off the line.

Bill Dill
Cumberland Foreside, Maine

I've re-christened my Alberg 30 with my daughter Maeve's nickname, Wild Elf. The tender? Troll.

Sanders McNe
New York, New York

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Loose Nuts

Here's another one on the ever-popular subject of hard-to-remove fasteners often found on good old boats. My favorite spots are cylinder heads, manifolds, anchor windlass, and the jam nuts on standing rigging turnbuckles, to name just a few. Next time, before you get out the penetrating oil, Liquid Wrench, channel-locks, the Vise-Grips, the chisel, or the nutcracker, try this.
Get some glazier's putty, children's modeling clay or electrician's caulking compound and build a small dam around the nut or cap screw that is frozen in time. The stuff needs to be oil-based, not water soluble, such as Play-Doh or other washable goo. Degrease the area, and remove any penetrating oil you might have tried before.
The little dam needs to be molded so that it will keep the nut, screw head, stud end, or whatever is stuck, submerged in at least two ounces of liquid. Now fill the reservoir with regular Pepsi-Cola. Coke and some of the other colas and soft drinks may work, but Pepsi has more phosphoric acid, which is what does the job, along with the carbonic acid and something in the formula that makes the liquid penetrate into the threads and cracks.
Check each application for leaks and leave it alone for about six hours. If you have several stickers, make as many dams as you need. Check in an hour or so for leaks, but leave it alone and let it work. Don't loosen the dam just yet, unless you cannot get the wrench on the nut. In most cases the fastener will unscrew as if by magic. If it is still frozen, try another application of fresh Pepsi. Six hours later if it still will not move, then you need a nutcracker or cold chisel. Your problem is beyond the capabilities of channel locks and Vise-Grips.
Another possibility, which has caused many salty words from mechanics and sailors alike, is that there may be a hidden problem that even Pepsi cannot dissolve. If you don't know the history of the machinery or the fastener, consider this. Some well-meaning soul may have applied a LocTite compound to the joint. It might as well be welded.
LocTite is a family of anaerobic, cyanoacrylate resins which have unusually good penetrating qualities and which harden when out of the presence of air. If you think this may be the case, done either at manufacture or during a repair, get an ultra-violet "black-lite" source and in a darkened space, illuminate the subject in "black-lite". Any traces of LocTite will fluoresce in a color that will indicate the grade of LocTite that was used. Get out your propane torch or a really big soldering iron. The joint or fastener will need to be heated to about 350 degrees F before it will break down the resin. The fastener will need to be unscrewed while hot.
Never apply anaerobic thread and bearing sealant compounds without first considering whether you or some poor unsuspecting person will come after you and end up losing their temper, manners, and religion over a very tight joint.
On the matter of penetrating oil, most of the naphtha-based graphite suspension products have been withdrawn because of the carcinogenic qualities of the liquid. An alternative is Oil of Wintergreen, sold at the pharmacy, but try Pepsi first. Buy it by the case for flushing out fresh and seawater corrosion in motor blocks, pumps, and circulating systems. Good stuff.

Ike Harter
Brooklyn Center, Minn.

Ike adds,
Frankly I never touch Pepsi after seeing what a piece of otherwise healthy stew beef looks like after soaking overnight in a cup of Pepsi. Yuck! All fuzzy and slippery, you know, with little feathery things hanging loose. I'll guarantee that a nice piece of beef won't look like that after soaking in beer or Scotch. Matter of fact, you will find it quite tasty without even cooking it.


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BoatU.S. stores where Good Old Boat is available as reference material

Fort Meyers
12901 McGregor Blvd.
Ft. Meyers, FL 33919
Middle River
8821 Pulaski Hwy.
Baltimore, MD 21237
Pompano Beach
451 S. Federal Hwy.
Pompano Beach, FL 33062
North Miami
12195 Biscayne Blvd.
N. Miami, FL 33181
Port Clinton
205 SE Catawba
Port Clinton, OH 43452
1850 Ridge Road East
Irondequoit, NY 14622
Cherry Hill
1618 North Kings Hwy.
Cherry Hill, NJ 08034
Mini Plaza
Route 11 (7909 1/2)
Cicero, NY 13039
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Mail Buoy

Choosing the right boat
Until three years ago, I had no interest in sailing. Then, while traveling in South America I got bit by (among other things) the sailing bug. When I returned from my trip, I started looking for my first sailboat. As if by magic, some neighbors had just decided that they wanted out of sailing and offered me their Snark Mach II (just like a 14' Sunfish) for $100. I took it to a nearby lake with no instruction and had a BLAST! Talk about a steep learning curve. After a few dips in May lake water you learn quickly how not to capsize and how to right your boat when you do. I've spent two summers on my Snark (Andiamo, Italian for "lets go") on city lakes and a larger lake up north. I think I'm ready for another boat.
I hope you can help me. I'm looking for a good old boat; one I can pull behind my Subaru, a boat that has a shallow draft and is forgiving to the eager novice. Andiamo has a lateen rig, and I'm looking forward to learning to sail a standard sloop rig. I hope to spend a few nights aboard so a cabin is preferable. From the advice of books and other sailors, I was thinking about something similar to a Catalina 22. I found an Aquarius 23 in Wisconsin for $1650 including trailer and three sails. The current owner said it needs some cosmetic work on the interior, but other than that it's ready to sail. I haven't seen it yet (I plan to see it this weekend), but it sounds like a good deal. Do you think this would be a good boat to move up to?

Michael Jarcho
Minneapolis, Minn.

Michael, I have no personal experience with the Aquarius 23. This information comes from our reference books: 23 loa, 22 ft 8 in lwl, 21 ft 2 in beam, 7 ft 11 in draft, 13 in board up and 4 ft 7 in board down, disp 2,280 lbs ballast, 815 lbs sail area, 248 sq ft removable rudder deck-stepped mast, five berths, enclosed head, head room 4 ft 11 in pop top down, 5 ft 11 in pop top up, production 1969 to 1977, designer Peter Barrett.
This is (hopefully good) general advice: there is no such thing as a perfect boat, nor is there any need for a standard sailing experience. When you meet someone who claims he has a perfect boat it may be inexperience driving this opinion. If not inexperience, it will more than likely be a sailor who is fortunate enough to be using his boat in a manner that flatters her capabilities. I think I read somewhere (as an inexperienced youth) that seduction was best accomplished by making a woman feel utterly charming and poised. If the fellow works to accomplish this, of course he is likely to be utterly charmed as well, and so it all works out. This process may be generalized to sailing and so may be more valuable than it is in romance, where it may be argued that true seduction rarely occurs. If you use a boat to do things that it does particularly well, you will enjoy it a great deal, possibly want for no other boat, and perhaps believe she is perfect. In the search phase you may define what you want to do and try to find the boat that does it well.
After purchase the best times come from learning the ways of your craft and arranging matters to keep her doing what she does best most of the time. A good trailerable boat will generally give up some things to be trailerable, and you will need to remember that when she is on the water with other boats that spend their summers on their own bottoms.
Trailering, not sailing, is the first serious business. The quality of the trailer, particularly the quality of the tires, bearings, and lights is extremely important, and commonly overlooked. Most large boats are launched by driving the trailers under water and floating the boat off. This tends to get water in the bearings unless the user is very careful. Bearing buddies are extremely important in this situation, and it is advisable when taking ownership to immediately pull a bearing cup and inspect the bearings. Much better yet, repack all the bearings, and replace the ones that look like they have been overheated or are corroded. In any case, replace the seals. If the trailer does not have bearing buddies, add them. Make all the lights work; replace bad or old tires. I think the boat you are looking at will be too heavy to be moved by a trailer without brakes. Check the laws of the state in this matter, and find someone to give advice on what your car is capable of doing. I'm certainly no expert in these areas, having never owned a boat that needed a trailer with brakes.
If you plan to launch and rig the boat every time you use it, judge the boat by how difficult it is to raise and lower the rig. Is it a one-person task (rare) or will you need help each time? If you intend to singlehand, the boat will need to be pretty small so you can rig it.
Now, judge the boat as a boat. I looked at some sketches of the Aquarius, and it looked like a reasonable candidate, but one can tell just so much from pictures. This is a contact for you from the owners' association pages of our Web site: Aquarius 23 (Coastal Recreation) Jeremy White, 1711 NE Darby, Hillsboro, OR 97124, 503-640-8292, If you become interested in other boats, it is a good idea to research them by contacting other owners. Our owners' association pages list over 800 individuals and groups with hot links to their Web sites, list servers, and e-mail addresses.
The last comment has to do with the appropriateness of the boat to your sailing experience. A fair number of people learn sailing the way you are learning sailing. It is a good way to do it. Generally, if you can sail a lateen-rigged board boat, no other craft with sails, no matter what the rig or size will be beyond you. It just is not that big a deal. People will tell you it is, and for some, it may be. If you have come this far, you are already in the no-big-deal skippers' group. Do what you want, have fun, learn, be careful, and respect the water because it has no way to respect you. Each boat will have its own characteristics, and over time your eye will tell you most of them before you ever take the tiller. There is no way to emphasize this enough: a good next boat for you is what is right for you, not some hypothetical beginning sailor. Sailing is a wonderful hobby precisely because you can do it so many ways. So many boats, so little time.
Seasickness relief
I noted the letter from Carol and Greg Fox. No doubt you will receive many remedies, most of which work some of the time for some of the people. My wife and daughter both have had good results with the Sea Band bracelets. They are a form of acupressure, placing pressure on an acupuncture point that has been shown to help with nausea from many causes. I had a friend (non-sailor) who was so motion sensitive he would start vomiting shortly after the plane left the ground and would be sick for 24 hours after a three-hour flight. Using the Sea Bands and the Scop patch on his last flight, he had only a brief sensation of nausea mid-flight and felt good on arrival.

Geoff Kloster
Galesville, Wisc.

More seasickness remedies
In response to the letter from Carol Fox: I used to get dreadfully motion-sick when I was a kid, but seem to be fairly immune to it as an adult. Not totally, though. I have very little ocean-sailing experience, but I've been out on medium-sized fishing boats when the motion caused queasiness and here's what I've noticed: EATING will often help -- especially if I eat something salty, like pretzels. (No beer, though.) The other big help -- one that I've used for other people who were REALLY sick -- is to look at the horizon with none of the boat in the near foreground. Admittedly, this would be hard, running before the wind, but going up forward for a while might be helpful. The only bad thing about eating is that someone ELSE might get sick watching you. Two other anti-nausea remedies: Cola--The phosphoric acid increases the hydrogen-ion concentration in the stomach, and often suppresses nausea; and ginger candy (available in most Asian markets) -- the spicier the better. Don't know why that works, but I've read about people recommending it for morning sickness. Best regards.

Pete Heinlein,
Yonkers, N.Y.

Water tank sources
I don't know if it helps, but I know of two Canadian sources for strangely shaped water tanks. One is Holland Marine Services -- an interesting mail-order house in Toronto ( that has a variety of shapes in their catalog, and may do custom tanks too. They also ship to the U.S. They have scanned in their entire 500+ page catalog so you can see what they have. The other is a plastics fabrication shop in Ottawa - Canus Plastics (613-232-2637). A friend had some custom tanks "welded" together by Canus out of (I think) cross-linked polyethylene. He made cardboard mock-ups of the tanks that he wanted and Canus made him plastic ones with the same dimensions. My friend has been cruising for about 8 months now with, as far as I know, no problems with his tanks. I intend to have some tanks made for me too. I expect that you can find a plastics fabricator in any large town that can do this work. Best of luck.

Don Taylor
Ottawa, Ontario

Ted Brewer mentions one more tank supplier in a note in the July issue of the Good Old Boat: all kinds of odd-shaped tanks (fuel, water, and waste) to fit various areas of boats are available from Kracor, P.O. Box 23667, Milwaukee, WI 53223; 414-355-6335; 414-355-8782 (fax).
Never give up!
I had almost given up ever finding the type of boat that was in the movie Capt. Ron. Well, just today, I got a phone call from a Good Old Boat subscriber in Minnesota, who said he saw my question in the new issue of the magazine. So he told me the answer: it's a Formosa 51 and her name is Wanderer 1 or 2 or 3, he wasn't sure about the number. He also says that the boat is still in the Caribbean sailing her life away, lucky her. He had just come back from the Caribbean and said he was there looking for her too. No luck however with that search. Thank you for your help. I love your magazine.

William J. Staat,
Fox Point, Wisc.

Capt. Ron's Boat
The boat Wanderer is a 51' Formosa Staysail Ketch. The last I heard she was available for charter for day sailing in the Galveston Bay, Texas area. I have posted on my Web site an unfortunately poor copy of an advertisement when she was up for sale several years back. Asking price was $129,500.

Ron Davis
Austin, Texas

No more "dithering" of GPS signal
From May 1, the Pentagon has stopped "dithering" the commercial GPS signal. The deliberate error has been set to zero, so it's now accurate to about 60 feet instead of 300 feet. Technically, the GPS program has removed the Selective Availability (SA) dither that added random error to locations computed by Clear Acquisition (CA) code GPS receivers. With CA turned on, the error was less than 100 meters (say 300 feet) 95 percent of the time. Now the accuracy should be 20 meters (60 feet) or so. The encrypted military signals are unchanged, as far as anyone knows. The Differential GPS setup still results in greater accuracy--down to about 3 meters (10 feet).

John Vigor
Oak Harbor, Wash.


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Published June, 2000